Blend Switch Technique Vol-027-1

Blend and Switch Video – Now Playing – Polymer Clay Library

“OHMYGOSH!! How cool is that? It looks like stained glass!” ~Tanya-L

More...

On August 3, I posted an introductory preview clip for the Blend and Switch tutorial. Today, the full version of this video lesson (Vol-027-1) is available in the PcT Store 

Cindy – Just wanted to let you know that after I joined your club that I stopped all the others that I belonged to. Thank you for sooooo much information and for saving me mucho dollars. Your new dedicated student. ~Norma-B

GOD BLESS YOU, CINDY LIETZ!!! I have been waiting for this video but knew you would only share it when the technique was perfected. Cuz, that’s how you are. You make the mistakes so we don’t have to. For anyone who has not joined as a member, this is something you definitely should do. The monthly fee is minimal and you will save that amount in aggravation. ~Anna-S

I was self taught and scanned the internet ALOT for new ideas and new techniques. I still do, but I LOVE Cindy’s site because it’s so much more than instruction (which is excellent) but a community which I was sorely lacking. My coffee and I are here every morning to see the next dose of polyclay fabulousness! ~Melinda-H

If you want to become a paid member, here is the link:
Polymer Clay Video Library

Or if you are brand new to polymer clay, the best place to first learn all of the fundamentals is here: Polymer Clay Beginners Course

To browse other video tutorials that are available for purchase without becoming a subscribing member (in other words… just a one time fee), you can go here: Polymer Clay Video Back Issues

Listed below are the topics that were discussed in the last 2 Open Mic Friday comments:

  • New Polymer Clay Facebook photo gallery.
  • Argggggggggggggggh. So many threads inside one thread.
  • Community Corner concept.
  • Removing Future Floor Polish from beads.
  • Lisa Pavelka magic gloss.
  • Curing UV resin in the Tucson sun.
  • Mica powders bubbling up.
  • Packing up the RV with polymer clay tools, supplies, Wi-Fi.
  • Sourcing Ginkgo leaf molds.
  • A source for Micromesh Pads with low shipping cost.
  • PYMII – Preserve Your Memories II.
  • Micromesh swabs finally solves rose bead fingerprint issue.
  • Skinner Blend / Teardrop Blend discussion.
  • Polymer clay tools new products testing.
  • Using clay softener to remove fingerprints.
  • Beauty technician, sanding and buffing products.
  • More resources for buying micromesh pads.
  • Helpful tips for navigating this web site.
  • Micromesh helpful for arthritic hands.
  • White sanding residue.
  • Vibratory tumbler for polymer clay beads.
  • Visiting the Micro-Mesh Factory in Iowa.
  • Toothbrush sanders.
  • Straight line sanding with Micromesh vs circular motion.
  • Using a Dremel for aggressive shaping of oval cabs.
  • And much, much more…

If you need to catch up, here is the link to the article where last week’s topics were discussed in detail: Polymer Clay 5th Friday

And for the Friday before that, go here: Micromesh Abrasives

Otherwise, you can use the comment section below to start talking about some new topics and ideas. Happy Friday!!!

Sponsored Ads & Special Promotions

Blend Switch Technique Vol-027-1

Want to chat about today’s post? That’s what the comment section below is for. Scroll Down… We’d love to hear from you!

Or... if you would like to request a topic for a future post, here is the link to do that… PcT Suggestion Box

Our PcT Social Media Channels

  • I’m not going to be able to join you guys, would so love to though. however i skype so I’d love joining you via skype. let me know all the details.

  • That would be nice if Cindy could make it. A new laptop is not in the budget right now, :( but IS on the wish list.

  • Looks like I gave the wrong url. Think this will be better.

  • People here are so very helpful and I don’t think any of them want or need a reward system. I know that they will continue to help when they know the answer to a problem without looking for their name on a “list”.

  • Now, for a little off topic….Several of us clayers would like to meet up in Chicago on June 23 to June 26, 2011! I have a former manager of the North Chicago Michaels willing to lend us his classroom for our “ClayStock!” FREE of charge!! (He is doing this as a favor to me! Michaels don’t “lend” or “rent” their classrooms, but this guy is really cool!)
    You can post your interest on More Than Clay FB page. You can contact Linda Kropp to join if not already a member. If you can’t make it we will try to Skype so you can “meet” everyone! Lisa Whitman has been doing a lot of leg work on this get together but has been a little under the weather. You can contact her, too, for more info, as well.
    I hope to meet many of you! This could be so much fun!!! Hope to see you in Chicago!!!!

    • @Catalina: Oh Cat, I so wish I could join you guys! I know you’ll have so much fun. But I can definitely be there via Skype if not in person.

      I had an awesome time in Manchester when I met up with some of Cindy’s UK Girls, and again at the Hobby Craft show in Birmingham. It’s great to meet other clay-obsessives, lol!

    • @Catalina: Chicago is a bit far from California, but I would love to Skype with all of you, too! Pls keep me posted, thanks.

      • @Maria: Sounds good, Maria! Silverleaf and I just Skyped for the first time and it is sooooo cool! Look forward to “meeting” you!!!

    • @Catalina: Rats, I’ll have been in the area about a month earlier (May 21st) for a friends wedding, I hope you all have a blast, I can’t do Skype due to very limited HD space on an ancient Laptop, have fun though.

      • @Ken H: Double rats!! I was hoping you could make it. We need a body guard! LOL!! If you have a usb you still maybe able to use a webcam. If not, get a new laptop!! Oh, well, we will miss you.
        Now, maybe we can convience Cindy to come!!! We will work on the tute that weekend but it would be great to have the real thing in person!

          • @Cindy Lietz from Polymer Clay Videos (Vol-034): AWESOME!!!!! AWESOME!!!! That would be soooo cool! Maybe we could show you how we accomplished your video for that week!!! We’ll have to find a time that works for you! Now, I’m really excited!!!

          • @Cindy Lietz): I’m excited too! How cool is this – I love the idea of a whole group of us trying out that day’s tute all at the same time. :)

  • AWESOME input Silverleaf!!!

    We totally need to come up with a way to
    implement a “Community Service Awards” program.

    Posting helpful comments like this is so valuable to so many of the members (and non-members), who follow this blog.

    I personally think that providing recognition for community service helpfulness, would be VERY fun and rewarding.

    What do you guys think?

  • Jayne Shankle says:

    HELP! I am having so much trouble getting bead holes centered. I have tried using a template…I have tried going straight through…I have tried going part way through on one end and then doing the same on the other end…and they just never look centered. Does anyone have a fail-proof way of making perfectly centered holes in round, square, or rocker beads????? :o(

    • @stephanie: That is so great that you are giving these techniques a shot. Always remember, some things take a little practice. If it isn’t perfect the first time, it will be better the next and so on. Phaedrakat did a great job in pointing you towards the info on this blog that will help. Anytime you have a question, using the search box at the top of the page will help you to find answers quickly.

      @Phaedrakat: Thanks for helping Stephanie like that!

      @Jayne Shankle: Hi Jayne! Getting the holes straight on a polymer clay bead does take some practice. You are on the right track, you probably just need to do more of them. I do have some tips on putting holes in beads, in my Basics Course if you are interested. I have provided a link by my name just above, to the video preview clip for the course video that may be helpful for you.

    • @Jayne Shankle: Like Cindy says, practice. I think I’m pretty good at it now, and I’m happy to explain how I do it, but I do think that it’s something that won’t truly make sense until you get the “feel” of it.

      * First of all, let your beads cool down before you pierce them, warm beads will distort easily.
      * Cornstarch on your piercing pin/needle.
      * I hold the bead in my non-dominant hand (my left, because I’m right-handed) and the tool in the dominant.
      * Work really slowly, a little at a time.
      * Pierce a little way in, rotating the needle as you go.
      * Then let go of the bead and continue to rotate the needle, so you can see the bead from all angles. You’ll be able to see if the hole’s already going wonky and you can correct if necessary, by pushing the needle in at a different angle.
      * Take the needle out, and dip in cornstarch again.
      * Repeat the piercing/checking/correcting/re-cornstarching cycle until the needle is just about to erupt from the other side (so you can see the little lump where it’s coming up), then remove the tool and finish the hole from the “exit” side.

      For rocker beads or square beads, where it’s important for the exit hole to be exactly in the middle of a side, I find it easier to initially pierce 3/4 of the way through, checking all the time that the hole is heading in the right direction, then do the rest from the exit side so your exit hole is perfectly positioned. If you’ve made a decent job of the entrance hole the two should meet up fine.

      Round beads are actually a little easier because there are no sides or corners to make it obvious if your holes are very slightly off.

      Hope this helps! It’s really hard to explain but much easier to do once you get the hang of it. You could also try rotating the bead and not the needle if that works better for you. Let us know how you get on!

  • Phaedrakat says:

    @stephanie: Hi Stephanie, so happy you’re enjoying your videos & projects! Cindy’s Blend & Switch tutorial is a member favorite…so much fun, & turns out beautiful! Not sure if you read all the comments in this thread…when the video originally came out, several people worried their sheets were too thin. So lots of ideas and work-arounds were tossed around here in this thread — like keeping the clay cool or using firmer clay (for the cut outs.) For thin sheets, try a backing sheet, or this method that Sue F described in her comment…

    I think there’s more here, too, and probably at the other Blend & Switch thread (the one w/video preview on it — link in the first paragraph of this post.) Good luck with your creations; hope you have lots of fun! ~Kat

    • stephanie jordan says:

      @Phaedrakat:
      Thank you Phaedrakat, I will check into them.Yes I beleive after I let the clay rest I will put a blask or beige back on. I wanted to make some clay toggles to go with my seed beading.

  • stephanie jordan says:

    Hi Cindy, I’ve just today tried, the gingham cane, and the blend and switch.
    I see a few things you point out that are valuable. I do need to use more clay. The blend and switch is too thin, but I finally tried it.I have to work on making the cut edges come together.I will learn!! I have to put everything away now but I really am glad you’re there.

  • Jayne Shankle says:

    Well I have to tell ya about my blend and switch experience….I couldn’t wait to try it so I got all my stuff together or all I could remember. I had so much fun! I made a couple of mistakes. I started out with my clay being too thin so I struggled with it for a little bit but it still turned out good. I used plain regular clay so my pieces had more of a camo look which was fine. But I am going to try the pearl soon. I love the way Cindy’s pieces look. After my pieces cooled I put the UV sealant on and found a few bubbles. I couldn’t remember exactly how Cindy said to remove them and I knew it had to do with heat and I was too lazy to turn the computer back on sooooooo I got the blow dryer out, set the first piece down, turned on the dryer and proceeded to blow my pendant across the room. And of course it landed face down. What made it worse is my husband saw the whole thing. THEN I remembered what Cindy said…..use a torch or cigarette lighter. Which I did on the other piece and it worked perfectly. Thank you Cindy!!!

    • @Jayne Shankle: Hi Jayne! You and me are sooo alike! I do the same thing. I mean, I didn’t do that,[ :) ] – but I think I know enough to start playing and forget a step and I try to make do and then I end up going back to the video!! I have no excuse either. My computer is on my Clay Station and in plain view! But, I get excited and just jump right in! Glad you’re having fun!

  • I did find out after going through the micro mesh pads three times on one piece, that it is still necessary to use the buffer to bring out the sheen.

  • I/m off to NY tomorrow early morning , won’t be back till Friday night; so just wanted to let you know so you won’t worry if there’s no post. have a good week guys and keep smiling.

    • Phaedrakat says:

      Hobby Lobby has Cernit on their website, so perhaps they have it in their stores, as well…

      @Cheryl Hodges: Have a safe trip, Cheryl! Hope you have a good time, and see some beautiful things… :D

      @Susan B.: Hi Susan! I’m so happy everything worked out with your ‘now-stiff’ pendants! I wonder, did you increase the temp to 150C when you baked the extra 30 min, or is that your usual baking temperature?

      The reason I’m curious is the convo you had with Nevena back in April. Nevena was having cracking issues when baking her (thin) roses — using Cernit, at 130C. She discovered that increasing the temp to 150C fixed the problem. Here’s the link to that discussion with Nevena about Cernit & different manufacturers, just in case you wanted another look.

      Please forgive me if you already have this marked (or do not need it!) Sometimes I’m a bit too eager trying to help… ;D LOL! ~Kat

      • @Phaedrakat: I usually cure everything at 110° for 60 minutes which works just fine, however, having reread the comments you linked to (thanks for the link!) am wondering if the Cernit would turn out even better by curing it from the start at the higher temperature. More testing…

  • Just to say that the extra curing (150° for 30 mins) worked perfectly with the Cernit clay! My pendants are really stiff and look and feel SO much better.

    • @Susan B: Thanks for testing this and getting back to us so quickly. I’ll take Sue F’s word for it that Premo never will get stiff if rolled real thin. So good to know that both Cernit (which I don’t have) and Kato (which I do have) will stiffen with longer baking.

      I have not found Cernit at Michael’s or JoAnn’s in Carson City, NV. Any other places to look when I’m on the road?

      And Susan B – Why do you use Cernit as compared to Premo?

    • @Susan B: That’s great, Susan! I’m glad you got it sorted out. I’ve never tried Cernit clay myself although I’ve heard good things about it.

      • @carolyn: It comes down to a choice between Fimo and Cernit because that is all I can find in my local shops! (I live in Florence, Italy). Every now and then I order some Premo on-line to do a particular Cindy technique but for my regular use I prefer to go out and buy it so I can clay straight away! I am sorry but I have no names of stores to give you for Cernit in the US but luckily you do have some Kato.

        @Sue F: I find Cernit pretty good on the whole although the amount of conditioning needed sometimes varies considerably from colour to colour so I have to be careful when making a blend that all the clays are of the same consistency. Anyway thanks again for your input I am so happy that even my thin pendants can be stiff!

        • @Susan B: A few of our Vancouver,BC guild members are doll makers and use Cernit or Prosculpt almost exclusively for their doll making. They really appreciate that translucent porcelain-like finish. I tried Cernit once for a sculpting demo at one of our meetings but found it too soft.

          • @Lawrence: How strange…I find that Cernit is quite firm, especially compared to Premo. Which type of clay do you use? It appears that the Cernit which is made in Belgium is softer than the stuff made in Germany and the fact that some of the colours seems softer than other could be either to do with the colour or perhaps the age of the clay. I too had heard that doll makers use Cernit and that there is whole range of flesh-coloured Cernit available for this use.

  • I have successfully made two pendants with this Blend and Switch technique but find that once they have been sanded and buffed they are quite bendy which gives a plastic feel to them which isn’t nice. I like the natural sheen and don’t want to use the UV resin (which I don’t have anyway!) and wonder if the flexibility is normal because the clay is quite thin or if it is due to the type of clay I use — Cernit. Any suggestions and comments would be most welcome.

  • Apologies to Doug! Sorry, forgot to edit out the link!

    Can we edit our remarks? If so, how?

    ADDED NOTE:
    Once comments are posted, you are not able to edit them Jocelyn. And with links, the spam software for this blog is programed to automatically “strip out” external links because it assumes they are spam related. ~Doug

  • Thanks Sue! Good ideas!

    I can see that I have been making life hard on myself conditioning the way I have….I fold to quickly, and it slows down the whole process.

  • Help at last, LOL. Donna Kato has a free video on how to condition her clay at her new educational site. Takes 5.5 minutes. Like the technique, and I’ll try to adapt it to all my clay. I’ll get the link and post it later.

    • @Jocelyn: Donna has made that conditioning info available before, although not in that kind of video format, I guess! It works extremely well and is much more effective than the other approaches I’ve tried.

      I first saw the technique described at Over the Rainbow, an Australian polymer clay (and other stuff) supplier:

      polymerclay.com.au/polymer-clay-kato-polyclay-c-21_446_493.html

      I use a variation of the technique because I’m not patient enough to do the acrylic roller stage; I described my variation here: Conditioning Kato

      I don’t add Kato Clear Medium because I don’t want my Kato any softer for normal use, but on the extremely rare occasions when I do want to soften it (e.g. for extruding), I smear a small amount evenly over the surface of the rolled-out polyclay, wait for a few minutes, then fold and roll it in. If you just put a blob of Clear Medium on the clay, even if it’s just a little, it can get squeezed out the sides of the folded clay and make a mess.

  • I’m planning on trying to fix the machine before I purchase another machine. At least this way I’ll KNOW if I’ll need one or not.

    It would be nice to have a machine for translucent and one for darker colors. I use Premo! Frost for much of my work and I’ve found it really difficult to condition without using the food processor or PM or other softener.

    • @Trish S: Have you tried to cut very thin slices and stagger them and then use the roller to flatten them? Then you place it in the pasta machine to finish conditioning? I do this a lot and found it to be much eaiser to condition. I hardly spend but a few minutes conditioning the clay. One little section at a time works best.

  • Trish, I hate to say this, but, I think once the machine does this, it’s very hard to fix. Had it happen twice and still have the Atlas pieces in a bag, lol. The new pasta machines are inexpensive and work well from what I’ve seen, especially Makins. Bite the bullet and treat yourself to a new one. A good machine makes clay work soooo much easier.

    • Phaedrakat says:

      @Jocelyn: I haven’t used an Atlas, but I’m guessing it has much sturdier scrapers, that are harder to fix once bent. I have a “cheapo” Amaco machine I bought 5-6 years ago at Michaels. You’re probably right about Trish’s machine, but I was able to fix my scrapers just fine. I’m guessing it’s because they’re made of a flimsier material. (They sure felt flimsy—that’s why they got bent! LOL)

      I also have the Sculpey “Clay Conditioning Machine”, which I thought I bought at Michael’s, too. But maybe it was JoAnn’s (or maybe I got one of the last ones before Michael’s put ’em on clearance.) Anyway, they really are inexpensive, especially if you have a coupon. Mine was $12.50!

      Trish: It would be so nice if you could get a new one and fix your existing PM, too. Then you could use one for white/translucent clay, and the other for the rest! Less cleaning involved, and less rubbing those problematic scrapers!

      Sister Cat, I’ll bet they DO miss you at work. I’m happy you’re enjoying your time off and sleeping in, but sorry about the reason. :(

      I’ll message you on FB tonight if I can, since I’ve been thinking of you & your next “appt.” I’m curious about the exact date. Tomorrow is Friday, but be careful—it’s the 13th! Scary! ;D

      • @Phaedrakat: Dear Sister Kat, you had to mention Friday the 13th? It is going to be a tough day. I’ll tell ya about it on FB.

  • {"email":"Email address invalid","url":"Website address invalid","required":"Required field missing"}
    >