I’ve done several different types of crafting. I’ve worked with metal, leather, pottery, and others. When I am learning any of these skills, I often gravitate toward teachers and literature that demystify the process and just show you how to get your hands dirty and do it. You are definitely one of those teachers.
There are people who are condescending or afraid to give too much information, like they’re holding onto secrets. I don’t know why. Maybe they fear losing business or being surpassed. All I know is one of the best parts of creativity is sharing what we know so different and interesting ideas are generated. We build upon each others ideas which become something different again, and the process go on and on.
Thank you for being so generous with your skills. You are part of what is great in creativity.
Thank you Lenore for saying that! That means a lot to me. I have always had a hard time with people being condescending and making things more complicated than they have to be.
Any skill… any art form is just a series of steps, practiced enough times to get the desired result. Even extremely difficult techniques are usually just a whole lot of simple steps strung together with some experience to know how to deal with the pitfalls that can happen along the way.
Some people want to feel more intelligent or important than others, so they hide that simplicity with pretentious words, over complicated steps, or just leaving information out. I honestly find that approach laughable and annoying! I see it all the time in the art field. I like to call it “Gallery Speak”!! LOL
You are so welcome Naomi! Do make sure to use the blog for finding answers to your questions. A quick search will usually turn up whatever it is that you are looking for. Get to know the others as well, by leaving comments and ready what others have said in the comment threads. Enjoy the process and I look forward to seeing what you make!
Hi Cindy
Not sure if this is where I write my comments about the Polymer Clay for beginners video. After hearing you say all what is right thing do about polymer clay….I’m afraid to say I have many many mistakes. But now I can start making beads again the correct way. yeayyyy BTW price is right on that video and well worth every penny I spent on it. lol I can’t thank you enough for making that video.
Thank you Annabelle for coming in here to say that! I really appreciate your kind words and am so glad that it is so helpful for you. This is a fun and creative journey that you are embarking on! Do enjoy!
A small suggestion on the drill bits…. Instead of bending the shank, beat on it with your hammer and flatten it. You could even flatten it a bit with the jaws of the vise if you’re strong enough. It still allows the bit to be straight for easier alignment in your clay “handle” and won’t spin inside it while drilling thru your work.
Thank you Michael for your great tip! It might be even more effective if you were able to heat the end with a torch before you hammered the end, so the metal would be softer… scratch that… it might soften the rest of the drill bit too, which wouldn’t be good… so just hammering it like you suggested would probably be best.
Just so you know, this video was filmed a very long time ago, and I find that now I mostly just use a pin vise to hold my drill bits. That way I can just switch it out if I want to change sizes. But if you didn’t want to buy a pin vise or you just wanted more decorative polymer handle ones, flattening the end is still a great way to go.
As far as pasta machines go, if you have the budget for it and think you will be doing polymer clay for a while, then I recommend the Atlas 150 Wellness Series. I posted a video on it at that link, for more info.
If the $100+ price is too steep, then try any one of the lower end machines, like the Sculpey, Amaco or the Makins machines. They are all approximately the same quality (though I hear the Makins is a little better) and in the same price range. I used my ‘cheap’ machines through my entire clay career up until I bought my Atlas, so they are good enough.
Thanks for your kind comments on the videos! I’m pleased you’re getting a lot out of them!
I am knew to polymer clay and have just started watching your great videos. I have a question. Do you recommend a particular brand of pasta machine. There are soo many out there, and I would like to get one that you feel is a good one.
Thanks,
Janice
Hi Cindy…just finished the Beginner’s Course and it was great. Really cleared up so much that I was struggling to solve on my own as a novice. I feel much more relaxed about experimenting.
One question about re-using beads that have been cured. If you cover them with a cane, do you have to make sure you use the same hole so that no air is trapped?
Thanks again for your clear concise videos…keep them coming!
Thank you Sandra for saying that! So happy to hear you are learning new stuff in the course!
Yes it is a not a bad idea to try and make your hole in the same place as the core bead, it just makes it easier later. Though if you push clay into the hole, the air won’t really be any issue. You then can drill the bead after it is baked. It’s up to you. You may want to play with both ways of doing it, and use the one that turns out the best.
It is great to know that you are feeling more relaxed about experimenting. Experimentation leads to learning about what works and what does not. Which of course leads to improving your skills. You should never let any art material intimidate you. Its just a hunk of clay and you are the master. (Sometimes you’ll end up the master of something hideous, but you’ll still be the master! LOL)
Have fun, relax and enjoy the process. Make sure to use the search box at the top of the blog and read as much as you can. Ask questions and give input where ever you can and you won’t be a novice for long! :)
What a great day I had, some working with clay and another part of the day watching these great video’s. I thought they were things I knew already even though I’ve been working with polymer clay for many years. I found out I didn’t know as much as I thought! I learned a lot more than I thought and became humbled by these mini courses you so eloquently presented, so much so that I’m sure I’ll I will watch them again and again, if for nothing more than brush up and practice, after all practice make’s perfect! well…lol, I don’t know about that, but I do know that I have already learned so much more than I thought I needed. Now I will make some pieces and then try some more of the more advanced video’s and see what happens!
Thanks so much to the both of you (Doug too). Your beginners course videos are wonderful
Take care,
Joy :0)
Wow Joy, what a wonderful thing to say!! I am glad you are enjoying the tutorials and the course. If you are looking for information, don’t forget to use the search box at the top of the page. It will take you to the answer pretty quick. And stay involved… just like you are doing… leaving comments, questions and answers for others, will give you a greater learning experience. Welcome to our clay family!
Cindy … as a newbie to polymer clay I really appreciated your beginners course! I think my favorite tip was that there are no mistakes. As a newbie I have had 50/50 success in the things that I’ve tried so far, and your video showed me these “mistakes” can be re-worked and re-used. Thank you for the awesome website; I look forward to purchasing more tutorials in the future.
Thank You for saying that Michele! Welcome to our sweet little PcT family. I think you will really enjoy how helpful and supportive everyone is here. Spend lots of time in the blog. There is so much to learn in those pages. If you need something specific, try using the search box at the top of the page and you will usually find the answer you need right away. If you’re stuck, just ask. Someone will try and help you the best they can. Have fun!
Cindy … the Fimo Quick Mix looks rather opaque. Does it effect the original color of the clay it is being mixed in to? What are your thoughts on using Sculpey Clay Softener instead of Fimo Quick Mix?
No Wendy, it doesn’t really effect the color, unless you were to have more mix quick then clay, then it might make the color less saturated. You can definitely use Sculpey Clay Softener, in small amounts instead. Sculpey Mold Maker or a drop or two of Baby Oil or Mineral Oil will also work. Most clays are pretty soft now and won’t need anything, unless of course it is old clay.
You may not know this, but there is a search box at the top of the page that will help you tremendously when you have a question. Just type in your keywords and hundreds of posts and thousands of comments will pop up that will often answer your questions much faster than I can.
I think you will find that most questions have been answered at one time here at the blog. Do feel free to ask questions that you can’t find the answer to though. There are many people in this community including myself that will help. I think you are going to love how sweet and helpful everyone is.
When conditioning the clay, why do you rip rather than fold before passing it through the pasta machine? Is there a benefit to this or just a personal preference?
Hi Wendy, I mostly just fold it, but tearing it is a great way to avoid trapping air in the clay, so that is the reason I show it in the video. You can do whatever works best for you.
Loving your tutorials – these beginner videos are great, I have learnt so much and also been searching around your site and found this:
“When Baking Beads, It’s OK to Sometimes Break Rules”
I had been wondering if it would be ok to bake PC for longer than the recommended time. I thought polymer clay might burn if it’s baked too long, but yay, now I know it’s about the temperature and not the time that will burn polymer clay. I also watched your recent video about it with the 10min test and the 60min test pieces. Very interesting how you were unable to break the 60min piece.
I don’t own a pasta machine yet but want to get one as it looks like it is a really useful tool to have. My question is, would a regular pasta machine (meant to be used on pasta) be as good as an amaco or atlas?
I’m in Australia and I can only buy an amaco or atlas machine online. The shipping cost is ridiculous! I’m hoping a regular brand pasta machine will be ok.
Hi Karma, so glad you are enjoying the tutorials! Yes you can use any kind of pasta machine for rolling out your clay. Just make sure to only use for clay and not for pasta as well. Food bits will contaminate the clay and clay bits will contaminate the food, so be careful not to use any tool for both food and clay. Have fun and make sure to participate in the blogs by comments and getting to know the others here. You will find they are a very supportive and sweet bunch!
Hi Neena – glad to hear you are enjoying the videos. Thanks for letting me know.
The video issue you described is something that is being caused by your web browser. The “Video Problems” link in the top navigation bar will provide you with instructions on how to fix most web video issues.
In regards to storing canes, that topic has been discussed quite a bit in several of the blog articles and comment threads. To find relevant information, you can use keywords like ‘storing canes’, ‘cane storage’ and ‘old canes’ in the search box at the top of the right navigation column.
Hi Cindy, thanks for the video – for some reason couldn’t watch the last segment re the floor polish! – kept cutting out.
One question – how do you store canes that are made up – how long can they be stored for – any tips re this please
thanks again, I have really enjoyed your tutorials
Neena
hi Cindy
I just finished watching all of the Beginner Course Video .. boy do you know how to make things seem so simple.. thanks for all your hard work for us. I’m glad I watched the video on using the future floor finish..I did notice some very tiny bubbles on a beautiful aurora pendant that I made…now I know I have to re sand it and be careful about taking the future shine so not to get the bubbles. Thanks again and Merry Christmas and a Happy and Healthy New Year to you and all my fellow polymer clayers
I finally decided that making simple mistakes it was time for me to purchase the beginner course. I have been making polymer clay bookmark charms for over a year on and off. I did order your tutorials which I love but found that I needed to go back to basics and get a firmer foundation on polymer clay especially after burning or at least making my snowmen ornaments look a little tanned… and burning my prayer hands. So now I am off to a better start. I did sell a dozen of my first snowmen but now I want to do better. Can’t wait to go through the entire course and make corrections in my technique. Thanks again for all your help.
I still having problem to finish by bead, and looking for some advices for my question below :
I made jupiter bead , puffy bead and other round beads. when I sanded them, the shape changed slightly. I started with 400, 600, 800, 1000 grit and so on, and I noticed some the colors on my jupiter bead also removed , so they are not original shape and colors as after baked . Is there any tricks to not change the shape and color when sanding and buffing for round bead or heart bead ( not flat bead).
On round or curve shaped beads, it is best to sand against a rounded or soft surface rather than a flat one so you don’t get flat sections on your bead and change the shape of it.
What you can do is put the sandpaper or micro mesh pad in the palm of your hand or a thick towel and use the other hand to hold the bead for sanding. This will make a cup shaped surface to sand against, therefore, creating less flat spots on your bead.
As far as removing too much color, don’t spend as long on the courser grits. The courser the grit, the more clay is removed.
Hope that helps. I am glad you are trying so hard to do an excellent finishing job on your beads. It will make a big difference in the quality of your beads!
I just wanted to let you know that even for someone like me who is not new to working with Polymer clay, the beginner’s course is very helpful, it is great for giving us a refresher course and also touches on subjects, we may not have thought of when first starting out.
I google Future Floor finish, I found in the forum about Product called Pledge Floor with Shine and I started google that product, so I found Future” Acrylic Shine Floor Wax 27 Oz at ACE Hardware store. Is that the same product?
@Dia H: I think so. Pledge with Future is the new name for the old Future and from what I’ve been told, it is the same (or extremely close to) the same product. If that is what you found, it should be fine. But I would test it first, just in case there has been a formula change.
@Mavis T: Thank you for saying what you said. I’m glad the course has worked well for you as a refresher.
Hi Cindy,
I purchased beginner course and some other your back issues..I love all of them. And I always excited to make new thing from your tute . I have been making some beads from your tutorial, Now time to finish them.
I have some questions as below:
1. I couldn’t find future floor finish or pledge something like that in my town. They said they don’t produce anymore. What could be product to substitute future floor finish?
2. I also have UV Epoxy Resin tutorial, but I am not able to afford those product ( UV lamp, resin, and so on) right now, since I am beginner and I have purchased all the materials needed to do polymer clay project. However I will purchase later for sure, just give a little break for this budget :). I would like to know, what’s best to use for UV epoxy resin? is it for round and flat bead?? or also good for sculpture project such as flower, mushroom, birdhouse and others??
3. I made poppy flower beads, after sand them with micro-mesh abrasive, but they are not shiny, however they feel smooth. did I do wrong? I didn’t use liquid abrasive in the end, is it matter ??
@Dia H: Hi Dia, Great questions! Most of them are answered in the info on this blog. If you use the search box at the top of the page, you should be able to find what you need in the future.
As for the answers…
(1) You can use many different finishes instead of Future Floor finish. Type, “Sculpey Glossy Glaze”, “Minwax”, “Varathane” or “finishes” into the search box at the top of the page for more info.
(2) UV Resin is quite viscous (runny) so it is best suited for flat surfaces and bezels , not round or sculpted pieces.
(3) You probably have not sanded or buffed long enough, especially at the higher grades, if you are not getting a nice shine. Another problem that could be happening is that you are using a clay like Sculpey III or Studio by Sculpey, that has more of a matte finish after baked. If you use Premo and put a little more time in, you should get the high shine. You can always add a finish to your sanded and buffed beads, if you want the extra shine.
Cindy,
Due to illness, I have been unable to do my fave crafts.
I’ve just started to work with Polymer Clay again & this course is great for refreshing my memory!!
Cindy, I loved the course, and many things I was wondering about got answered. I am anxious for when I have more time to get started with some of my ideas through your inspiration.
Thanks very much.
Please let me know when another course will be available.
Hi Cindy – I just completed viewing the first and was blowed out to space. I have not purphaseed any supplies, where should I start? The only store in my town is Wal-Mart, can you subjust a good online store?
@Earnestine H: Hi Earnestine, welcome! I get most of my supplies locally, but there are a few places online that are great for polymer clay supplies. One is polymerclayexpress.com and another is polymerclaysuperstore.com which btw is having a great overstock sale right now. Hope that helps!
Hi Cindy. I’m new to polymer clay but am having the same problems you discussed with Janet quite some time ago as far as the clay not hardening, even after trying various times and temps. I am also trying to make pretty thin pieces and have mainly played around with using cookie cutters to make my shapes. For various shapes like this (approximate 3″x3″) what thickness would you recommend to get them to harden?
This is a bit baffling to me, as I see others out there making similar sized ornaments that are very durable and don’t have this problem. Thanks for your help!
@Jennie S: Hi Jennie! Most clay will be a little flexible even after baking, some more than others depending on the brand. For something that size. I would use Premo clay at the thickness of at least 1/4 inch. And just like I suggested to Janet, you will want to make sure you are baking your pieces at the proper temp. (265F -275F for Premo) using an oven thermometer to be sure. Also I recommend baking for longer than the 30 min mentioned on most packs. I like to bake for one full hour. Make sure to tent your piece so that it doesn’t darken or discolor.
There is tons of information on baking in the articles on this blog. Use the search box at the top of the page and you will find most of your answers quicker than waiting for me to help you. There are also many friendly members who are happy and willing to help in any way. Make sure to spend some time reading the posts and getting to know the others here. I am sure it will make a big difference in your learning experience.
With regards to usernames and passwords… for privacy reasons, that is the type of discussion we’ll need to do via email. Please check your inbox. I will send you a message shortly.
Oops sorry didnt see your reply. Thank you for taking the time to look at your website and i have already taken your comments on board and agree, hope we can keep in touch with regards to my jewellery as I think they are going to work extremely well together.
I have just finished the basic Course which was fantastic, i have bought every book but just kept looking at the clay I had bought. But because of your videos, I am now ready to go and make something great with what i have learnt.
I just wanted some information, i;m a little confused!! What should I do next and what do i do now to become a member where i get the videos each month, if you could tell me how i should work my way through the lessons/archives. i would appreciate it. thanks again for a brilliant and well thought through course. thank you Sharon xx
I have just bought a load of polymer Clay and had some tools as I make PMC Jewellery – creativesilver.co.uk I would appreciate your input into my website as I am now going to incorporate Polymer Clay with the PMC Silver. I have just purchased the first tutorial pack and cant wait to get going, I am just eager to find a flower that I can also have a go at now. Can u tell me where I would find one on yr website. Looking forward to lots of conversations with you. Sharon xx
@Sharon Cahill: Welcome Sharon! It is wonderful to have a PMC artist here. Polymer clay is such a compliment to PMC. I think you are really going to enjoy it! The course is the perfect place to start, so I am glad you purchased it. This will give you a good foundation to start with.
Next you will want to learn all the cool techniques there are to do with the clay, including making flowers and such. I have a ton of tutorials available. Click the link by my name to see the list of back issues available, to see what you like.
If you enjoy the back issue videos, then you may want to become an ongoing member, like many of those here at the blog are. Make sure to read the blog and participate in the conversations. This way you can get answers to your questions and feedback from others on things such as advice for your blog.
Also use the search box at the top left hand side of all of the pages here at my blog… to search for information on almost everything you ever wanted to know about polymer clay. You will find there are loads of tips and tricks just waiting to be discovered.
As far as your website goes, I popped by and have a couple of suggestions. Your work is beautiful, unique and handmade. But I find the look of your site, especially the banner, makes it look like a wholesale jewelry site. It looks professional, but not very personal. IMO it would be warmer and more inviting, if you had photos of your work and/or your studio in the banner instead of the ‘stock photos’. People would then get the sense that your work is made by a real person and not just mass produced. Also the right ups could be a little more personal as well. Other than that I think it is a great looking site and wish you lots of success!
Hi Patricia… good to hear from you. Thanks for your feedback about the course. I’m so glad to hear that it was helpful for you.
In regards to purchasing individual videos, I will be doing that at some point this year (2011)… but the price will be *significantly* higher per lesson… more in line with what most other instructors charge for their tutes. Not sure if you are aware, but the going rate for most single polymer clay tutorials, ranges anywhere from $5 to $50 each… and most all of them are not using over-the-shoulder-video-filming to present their teaching, as I do.
Currently when you subscribe to my video library, the lessons work out to about 83 cents each ($9.95 each 90 days for 12 videos = 83 cents per videos)… quite a bit different than what everyone else is charging :-)
The sooner you subscribe, the sooner you will be able to start receiving the lessons at the 83 cent, 66% discounted rate. But even if you don’t subscribe, and you decide to buy individual back issue packages instead, the price per video still only works out to $2.50 each ($9.95 per mthly volume for 4 videos = $2.50… plus you get the 4 A-series recipe cards in addition to the videos).
Here is an excerpt from an email that I just received a few days ago…
“… just wanted to tell you that I love your tutorials. I have learned more in the last two weeks than I have in the last four years. I love working with clay but you have made it into an obsession for me. I learn so much faster when I can see it done rather than reading and making so many mistakes. I had made up my mind to pay for the video lessons at another site, at upwards of fifty dollars for just one class. Then I stumbled upon your site. Wow!!! You have made it affordable even for those of us on a limited income. THANK YOU so much! I will continue to purchase all the back issues as I can, and look forward to all the new ones. Again thanks for being there.” ~Karon-C
Anywho… hopefully this info was helpful for you as you figure out how the library can best meet your own needs. If you are interested, the link by my name above will take you to the library subscription page for more info.
Thank you so much for the videos. The beginning course has been very helpful!!!
You have so many great ideas! I found one video you did on embedding pendants and I’m looking at possibly purchasing the series that has that one. I know I can buy sets of videos. I’m wondering if there is a way to do a sort of piecemeal package to put some of the ones I want together. Sort of….one from Column A, one from Column B. I realize this may not be possible but you have so many wonderful ones in your library! I was looking at the membership as well and trying to figure out how best to meet my needs. Still learning how to put all this together!!!
roserader1@yahoo.com
Hello Cindy, Thank you for not only being a beautiful artist and designer but to be kind enough to share your knowledge with me.
Hugs
Rose
Hi Cindy,
My question is: if you condition the clay once and you store the leftovers, do you need to condition the leftovers again after a period of time? Thank you in advance.
In video #38 about sanding you mention that you can also use power tools to do the job and that you would teach about that in another video. Have you already done that video? If so, would you let me know where it is in the archive?
@Linda F: Hi Linda, I have actually not done a tutorial on that yet… got distracted making other tutes! Thanks for the reminder. I’ll have to think about doing one for the future. As far as sanding goes, I find working by hand with Micro-Mesh Pads to be quick and very effective. I have done a tutorial on that if you want to check it out. Just click the link by my name for more info.
Cindy,
I’ve done several different types of crafting. I’ve worked with metal, leather, pottery, and others. When I am learning any of these skills, I often gravitate toward teachers and literature that demystify the process and just show you how to get your hands dirty and do it. You are definitely one of those teachers.
There are people who are condescending or afraid to give too much information, like they’re holding onto secrets. I don’t know why. Maybe they fear losing business or being surpassed. All I know is one of the best parts of creativity is sharing what we know so different and interesting ideas are generated. We build upon each others ideas which become something different again, and the process go on and on.
Thank you for being so generous with your skills. You are part of what is great in creativity.
Lenore
Thank you Lenore for saying that! That means a lot to me. I have always had a hard time with people being condescending and making things more complicated than they have to be.
Any skill… any art form is just a series of steps, practiced enough times to get the desired result. Even extremely difficult techniques are usually just a whole lot of simple steps strung together with some experience to know how to deal with the pitfalls that can happen along the way.
Some people want to feel more intelligent or important than others, so they hide that simplicity with pretentious words, over complicated steps, or just leaving information out. I honestly find that approach laughable and annoying! I see it all the time in the art field. I like to call it “Gallery Speak”!! LOL
Hi Cindy,
I am just getting started with polymer clay so your videos have been a great learning tool. Thank you so much for making them.
I will let you know when I actually make something. So far, I am just getting my supplies together.
Naomi
You are so welcome Naomi! Do make sure to use the blog for finding answers to your questions. A quick search will usually turn up whatever it is that you are looking for. Get to know the others as well, by leaving comments and ready what others have said in the comment threads. Enjoy the process and I look forward to seeing what you make!
Hi Cindy
Not sure if this is where I write my comments about the Polymer Clay for beginners video. After hearing you say all what is right thing do about polymer clay….I’m afraid to say I have many many mistakes. But now I can start making beads again the correct way. yeayyyy BTW price is right on that video and well worth every penny I spent on it. lol I can’t thank you enough for making that video.
Thank you Annabelle for coming in here to say that! I really appreciate your kind words and am so glad that it is so helpful for you. This is a fun and creative journey that you are embarking on! Do enjoy!
Hi Cindy,
A small suggestion on the drill bits…. Instead of bending the shank, beat on it with your hammer and flatten it. You could even flatten it a bit with the jaws of the vise if you’re strong enough. It still allows the bit to be straight for easier alignment in your clay “handle” and won’t spin inside it while drilling thru your work.
Hope that helps and bye for now!
Michael
Thank you Michael for your great tip! It might be even more effective if you were able to heat the end with a torch before you hammered the end, so the metal would be softer… scratch that… it might soften the rest of the drill bit too, which wouldn’t be good… so just hammering it like you suggested would probably be best.
Just so you know, this video was filmed a very long time ago, and I find that now I mostly just use a pin vise to hold my drill bits. That way I can just switch it out if I want to change sizes. But if you didn’t want to buy a pin vise or you just wanted more decorative polymer handle ones, flattening the end is still a great way to go.
Thank you for your comment!
That should say, “I am new”………….NOT, “I am knew”…… :-/
I ‘knew’ that Janice :)
As far as pasta machines go, if you have the budget for it and think you will be doing polymer clay for a while, then I recommend the Atlas 150 Wellness Series. I posted a video on it at that link, for more info.
If the $100+ price is too steep, then try any one of the lower end machines, like the Sculpey, Amaco or the Makins machines. They are all approximately the same quality (though I hear the Makins is a little better) and in the same price range. I used my ‘cheap’ machines through my entire clay career up until I bought my Atlas, so they are good enough.
Thanks for your kind comments on the videos! I’m pleased you’re getting a lot out of them!
I am knew to polymer clay and have just started watching your great videos. I have a question. Do you recommend a particular brand of pasta machine. There are soo many out there, and I would like to get one that you feel is a good one.
Thanks,
Janice
Hi Cindy…just finished the Beginner’s Course and it was great. Really cleared up so much that I was struggling to solve on my own as a novice. I feel much more relaxed about experimenting.
One question about re-using beads that have been cured. If you cover them with a cane, do you have to make sure you use the same hole so that no air is trapped?
Thanks again for your clear concise videos…keep them coming!
Thank you Sandra for saying that! So happy to hear you are learning new stuff in the course!
Yes it is a not a bad idea to try and make your hole in the same place as the core bead, it just makes it easier later. Though if you push clay into the hole, the air won’t really be any issue. You then can drill the bead after it is baked. It’s up to you. You may want to play with both ways of doing it, and use the one that turns out the best.
It is great to know that you are feeling more relaxed about experimenting. Experimentation leads to learning about what works and what does not. Which of course leads to improving your skills. You should never let any art material intimidate you. Its just a hunk of clay and you are the master. (Sometimes you’ll end up the master of something hideous, but you’ll still be the master! LOL)
Have fun, relax and enjoy the process. Make sure to use the search box at the top of the blog and read as much as you can. Ask questions and give input where ever you can and you won’t be a novice for long! :)
What a great day I had, some working with clay and another part of the day watching these great video’s. I thought they were things I knew already even though I’ve been working with polymer clay for many years. I found out I didn’t know as much as I thought! I learned a lot more than I thought and became humbled by these mini courses you so eloquently presented, so much so that I’m sure I’ll I will watch them again and again, if for nothing more than brush up and practice, after all practice make’s perfect! well…lol, I don’t know about that, but I do know that I have already learned so much more than I thought I needed. Now I will make some pieces and then try some more of the more advanced video’s and see what happens!
Thanks so much to the both of you (Doug too). Your beginners course videos are wonderful
Take care,
Joy :0)
Wow Joy, what a wonderful thing to say!! I am glad you are enjoying the tutorials and the course. If you are looking for information, don’t forget to use the search box at the top of the page. It will take you to the answer pretty quick. And stay involved… just like you are doing… leaving comments, questions and answers for others, will give you a greater learning experience. Welcome to our clay family!
Hi Cindy,
I really enjoyed the course, I just love it! Very Informative and detailed, now I feel better about all those mistakes I made so far.
Thanks so much!!
Cindy … as a newbie to polymer clay I really appreciated your beginners course! I think my favorite tip was that there are no mistakes. As a newbie I have had 50/50 success in the things that I’ve tried so far, and your video showed me these “mistakes” can be re-worked and re-used. Thank you for the awesome website; I look forward to purchasing more tutorials in the future.
Thank You for saying that Michele! Welcome to our sweet little PcT family. I think you will really enjoy how helpful and supportive everyone is here. Spend lots of time in the blog. There is so much to learn in those pages. If you need something specific, try using the search box at the top of the page and you will usually find the answer you need right away. If you’re stuck, just ask. Someone will try and help you the best they can. Have fun!
Cindy … the Fimo Quick Mix looks rather opaque. Does it effect the original color of the clay it is being mixed in to? What are your thoughts on using Sculpey Clay Softener instead of Fimo Quick Mix?
Thanks!
Wendy
No Wendy, it doesn’t really effect the color, unless you were to have more mix quick then clay, then it might make the color less saturated. You can definitely use Sculpey Clay Softener, in small amounts instead. Sculpey Mold Maker or a drop or two of Baby Oil or Mineral Oil will also work. Most clays are pretty soft now and won’t need anything, unless of course it is old clay.
You may not know this, but there is a search box at the top of the page that will help you tremendously when you have a question. Just type in your keywords and hundreds of posts and thousands of comments will pop up that will often answer your questions much faster than I can.
I think you will find that most questions have been answered at one time here at the blog. Do feel free to ask questions that you can’t find the answer to though. There are many people in this community including myself that will help. I think you are going to love how sweet and helpful everyone is.
Glad to have you here!
Thanks Cindy! I had not yet discovered the search box, so thanks for pointing it out. That will definitely be helpful.
You’re welcome Wendy!
Hi Cindy:
When conditioning the clay, why do you rip rather than fold before passing it through the pasta machine? Is there a benefit to this or just a personal preference?
Thanks!
Wendy
Hi Wendy, I mostly just fold it, but tearing it is a great way to avoid trapping air in the clay, so that is the reason I show it in the video. You can do whatever works best for you.
Hi Cindy,
Loving your tutorials – these beginner videos are great, I have learnt so much and also been searching around your site and found this:
“When Baking Beads, It’s OK to Sometimes Break Rules”
I had been wondering if it would be ok to bake PC for longer than the recommended time. I thought polymer clay might burn if it’s baked too long, but yay, now I know it’s about the temperature and not the time that will burn polymer clay. I also watched your recent video about it with the 10min test and the 60min test pieces. Very interesting how you were unable to break the 60min piece.
I don’t own a pasta machine yet but want to get one as it looks like it is a really useful tool to have. My question is, would a regular pasta machine (meant to be used on pasta) be as good as an amaco or atlas?
I’m in Australia and I can only buy an amaco or atlas machine online. The shipping cost is ridiculous! I’m hoping a regular brand pasta machine will be ok.
Thank you,
Happy New Year,
Karma
Hi Karma, so glad you are enjoying the tutorials! Yes you can use any kind of pasta machine for rolling out your clay. Just make sure to only use for clay and not for pasta as well. Food bits will contaminate the clay and clay bits will contaminate the food, so be careful not to use any tool for both food and clay. Have fun and make sure to participate in the blogs by comments and getting to know the others here. You will find they are a very supportive and sweet bunch!
Thanks Cindy, that is a big relief. Will save me lots of money.
I have been looking at the blogs, you have so much great information here.
Thanks,
Karma
Hello Cindy,
I am really enjoying the video’s.
Thanks,
Nicole
Hi Neena – glad to hear you are enjoying the videos. Thanks for letting me know.
The video issue you described is something that is being caused by your web browser. The “Video Problems” link in the top navigation bar will provide you with instructions on how to fix most web video issues.
In regards to storing canes, that topic has been discussed quite a bit in several of the blog articles and comment threads. To find relevant information, you can use keywords like ‘storing canes’, ‘cane storage’ and ‘old canes’ in the search box at the top of the right navigation column.
Hi Cindy, thanks for the video – for some reason couldn’t watch the last segment re the floor polish! – kept cutting out.
One question – how do you store canes that are made up – how long can they be stored for – any tips re this please
thanks again, I have really enjoyed your tutorials
Neena
hi Cindy
I just finished watching all of the Beginner Course Video .. boy do you know how to make things seem so simple.. thanks for all your hard work for us. I’m glad I watched the video on using the future floor finish..I did notice some very tiny bubbles on a beautiful aurora pendant that I made…now I know I have to re sand it and be careful about taking the future shine so not to get the bubbles. Thanks again and Merry Christmas and a Happy and Healthy New Year to you and all my fellow polymer clayers
HI Cindy,
I finally decided that making simple mistakes it was time for me to purchase the beginner course. I have been making polymer clay bookmark charms for over a year on and off. I did order your tutorials which I love but found that I needed to go back to basics and get a firmer foundation on polymer clay especially after burning or at least making my snowmen ornaments look a little tanned… and burning my prayer hands. So now I am off to a better start. I did sell a dozen of my first snowmen but now I want to do better. Can’t wait to go through the entire course and make corrections in my technique. Thanks again for all your help.
Natalie
So glad to see you that you were able to get the course, Natalie. I know it will help you a lot… and congrats on selling your first snowmen!
Great tips Cindy!, I am trying to do my best to make a quality bead and I work hard for it..Thank you very much for your support.
You’re Welcome! :-)
Hi Cindy,
I still having problem to finish by bead, and looking for some advices for my question below :
I made jupiter bead , puffy bead and other round beads. when I sanded them, the shape changed slightly. I started with 400, 600, 800, 1000 grit and so on, and I noticed some the colors on my jupiter bead also removed , so they are not original shape and colors as after baked . Is there any tricks to not change the shape and color when sanding and buffing for round bead or heart bead ( not flat bead).
Thanks.
@Dia H: Great questions Dia!
On round or curve shaped beads, it is best to sand against a rounded or soft surface rather than a flat one so you don’t get flat sections on your bead and change the shape of it.
What you can do is put the sandpaper or micro mesh pad in the palm of your hand or a thick towel and use the other hand to hold the bead for sanding. This will make a cup shaped surface to sand against, therefore, creating less flat spots on your bead.
As far as removing too much color, don’t spend as long on the courser grits. The courser the grit, the more clay is removed.
Hope that helps. I am glad you are trying so hard to do an excellent finishing job on your beads. It will make a big difference in the quality of your beads!
Hi Cindy,
I just wanted to let you know that even for someone like me who is not new to working with Polymer clay, the beginner’s course is very helpful, it is great for giving us a refresher course and also touches on subjects, we may not have thought of when first starting out.
Thanks for all of your hard work!!
Mavis
Hi Cindy,
I google Future Floor finish, I found in the forum about Product called Pledge Floor with Shine and I started google that product, so I found Future” Acrylic Shine Floor Wax 27 Oz at ACE Hardware store. Is that the same product?
Thanks.
@Dia H: I think so. Pledge with Future is the new name for the old Future and from what I’ve been told, it is the same (or extremely close to) the same product. If that is what you found, it should be fine. But I would test it first, just in case there has been a formula change.
@Mavis T: Thank you for saying what you said. I’m glad the course has worked well for you as a refresher.
Thanks Cindy For your quick answer.
Hi Cindy,
I purchased beginner course and some other your back issues..I love all of them. And I always excited to make new thing from your tute . I have been making some beads from your tutorial, Now time to finish them.
I have some questions as below:
1. I couldn’t find future floor finish or pledge something like that in my town. They said they don’t produce anymore. What could be product to substitute future floor finish?
2. I also have UV Epoxy Resin tutorial, but I am not able to afford those product ( UV lamp, resin, and so on) right now, since I am beginner and I have purchased all the materials needed to do polymer clay project. However I will purchase later for sure, just give a little break for this budget :). I would like to know, what’s best to use for UV epoxy resin? is it for round and flat bead?? or also good for sculpture project such as flower, mushroom, birdhouse and others??
3. I made poppy flower beads, after sand them with micro-mesh abrasive, but they are not shiny, however they feel smooth. did I do wrong? I didn’t use liquid abrasive in the end, is it matter ??
Thank you.
@Dia H: Hi Dia, Great questions! Most of them are answered in the info on this blog. If you use the search box at the top of the page, you should be able to find what you need in the future.
As for the answers…
(1) You can use many different finishes instead of Future Floor finish. Type, “Sculpey Glossy Glaze”, “Minwax”, “Varathane” or “finishes” into the search box at the top of the page for more info.
(2) UV Resin is quite viscous (runny) so it is best suited for flat surfaces and bezels , not round or sculpted pieces.
(3) You probably have not sanded or buffed long enough, especially at the higher grades, if you are not getting a nice shine. Another problem that could be happening is that you are using a clay like Sculpey III or Studio by Sculpey, that has more of a matte finish after baked. If you use Premo and put a little more time in, you should get the high shine. You can always add a finish to your sanded and buffed beads, if you want the extra shine.
Hope you are enjoying working with polymer clay!
Cindy,
Due to illness, I have been unable to do my fave crafts.
I’ve just started to work with Polymer Clay again & this course is great for refreshing my memory!!
It is well worth every penny!
Thanks :)
Cindy, I loved the course, and many things I was wondering about got answered. I am anxious for when I have more time to get started with some of my ideas through your inspiration.
Thanks very much.
Please let me know when another course will be available.
Hi Cindy – I just completed viewing the first and was blowed out to space. I have not purphaseed any supplies, where should I start? The only store in my town is Wal-Mart, can you subjust a good online store?
@Earnestine H: Hi Earnestine, welcome! I get most of my supplies locally, but there are a few places online that are great for polymer clay supplies. One is polymerclayexpress.com and another is polymerclaysuperstore.com which btw is having a great overstock sale right now. Hope that helps!
Hi Cindy. I’m new to polymer clay but am having the same problems you discussed with Janet quite some time ago as far as the clay not hardening, even after trying various times and temps. I am also trying to make pretty thin pieces and have mainly played around with using cookie cutters to make my shapes. For various shapes like this (approximate 3″x3″) what thickness would you recommend to get them to harden?
This is a bit baffling to me, as I see others out there making similar sized ornaments that are very durable and don’t have this problem. Thanks for your help!
@Jennie S: Hi Jennie! Most clay will be a little flexible even after baking, some more than others depending on the brand. For something that size. I would use Premo clay at the thickness of at least 1/4 inch. And just like I suggested to Janet, you will want to make sure you are baking your pieces at the proper temp. (265F -275F for Premo) using an oven thermometer to be sure. Also I recommend baking for longer than the 30 min mentioned on most packs. I like to bake for one full hour. Make sure to tent your piece so that it doesn’t darken or discolor.
There is tons of information on baking in the articles on this blog. Use the search box at the top of the page and you will find most of your answers quicker than waiting for me to help you. There are also many friendly members who are happy and willing to help in any way. Make sure to spend some time reading the posts and getting to know the others here. I am sure it will make a big difference in your learning experience.
Have fun claying!
Hi Sharon,
With regards to usernames and passwords… for privacy reasons, that is the type of discussion we’ll need to do via email. Please check your inbox. I will send you a message shortly.
QUICK QUESTION EVERY TIME I PUT IN MY USER NAME AND THE PASSWORD U EMAILED ME IT COMES UP WITH AN ERROR PAGE, WHAT AM I DOING WRONG? THANKS
Oops sorry didnt see your reply. Thank you for taking the time to look at your website and i have already taken your comments on board and agree, hope we can keep in touch with regards to my jewellery as I think they are going to work extremely well together.
Thanks for your time.
Sharon x
Hi Cindy
I have just finished the basic Course which was fantastic, i have bought every book but just kept looking at the clay I had bought. But because of your videos, I am now ready to go and make something great with what i have learnt.
I just wanted some information, i;m a little confused!! What should I do next and what do i do now to become a member where i get the videos each month, if you could tell me how i should work my way through the lessons/archives. i would appreciate it. thanks again for a brilliant and well thought through course. thank you Sharon xx
Hi Cindy
I have just bought a load of polymer Clay and had some tools as I make PMC Jewellery – creativesilver.co.uk I would appreciate your input into my website as I am now going to incorporate Polymer Clay with the PMC Silver. I have just purchased the first tutorial pack and cant wait to get going, I am just eager to find a flower that I can also have a go at now. Can u tell me where I would find one on yr website. Looking forward to lots of conversations with you. Sharon xx
@Sharon Cahill: Welcome Sharon! It is wonderful to have a PMC artist here. Polymer clay is such a compliment to PMC. I think you are really going to enjoy it! The course is the perfect place to start, so I am glad you purchased it. This will give you a good foundation to start with.
Next you will want to learn all the cool techniques there are to do with the clay, including making flowers and such. I have a ton of tutorials available. Click the link by my name to see the list of back issues available, to see what you like.
If you enjoy the back issue videos, then you may want to become an ongoing member, like many of those here at the blog are. Make sure to read the blog and participate in the conversations. This way you can get answers to your questions and feedback from others on things such as advice for your blog.
Also use the search box at the top left hand side of all of the pages here at my blog… to search for information on almost everything you ever wanted to know about polymer clay. You will find there are loads of tips and tricks just waiting to be discovered.
As far as your website goes, I popped by and have a couple of suggestions. Your work is beautiful, unique and handmade. But I find the look of your site, especially the banner, makes it look like a wholesale jewelry site. It looks professional, but not very personal. IMO it would be warmer and more inviting, if you had photos of your work and/or your studio in the banner instead of the ‘stock photos’. People would then get the sense that your work is made by a real person and not just mass produced. Also the right ups could be a little more personal as well. Other than that I think it is a great looking site and wish you lots of success!
Hi Patricia… good to hear from you. Thanks for your feedback about the course. I’m so glad to hear that it was helpful for you.
In regards to purchasing individual videos, I will be doing that at some point this year (2011)… but the price will be *significantly* higher per lesson… more in line with what most other instructors charge for their tutes. Not sure if you are aware, but the going rate for most single polymer clay tutorials, ranges anywhere from $5 to $50 each… and most all of them are not using over-the-shoulder-video-filming to present their teaching, as I do.
Currently when you subscribe to my video library, the lessons work out to about 83 cents each ($9.95 each 90 days for 12 videos = 83 cents per videos)… quite a bit different than what everyone else is charging :-)
The sooner you subscribe, the sooner you will be able to start receiving the lessons at the 83 cent, 66% discounted rate. But even if you don’t subscribe, and you decide to buy individual back issue packages instead, the price per video still only works out to $2.50 each ($9.95 per mthly volume for 4 videos = $2.50… plus you get the 4 A-series recipe cards in addition to the videos).
Here is an excerpt from an email that I just received a few days ago…
“… just wanted to tell you that I love your tutorials. I have learned more in the last two weeks than I have in the last four years. I love working with clay but you have made it into an obsession for me. I learn so much faster when I can see it done rather than reading and making so many mistakes. I had made up my mind to pay for the video lessons at another site, at upwards of fifty dollars for just one class. Then I stumbled upon your site. Wow!!! You have made it affordable even for those of us on a limited income. THANK YOU so much! I will continue to purchase all the back issues as I can, and look forward to all the new ones. Again thanks for being there.” ~Karon-C
Anywho… hopefully this info was helpful for you as you figure out how the library can best meet your own needs. If you are interested, the link by my name above will take you to the library subscription page for more info.
All the best,
~Cindy
Hi Cindy,
Thank you so much for the videos. The beginning course has been very helpful!!!
You have so many great ideas! I found one video you did on embedding pendants and I’m looking at possibly purchasing the series that has that one. I know I can buy sets of videos. I’m wondering if there is a way to do a sort of piecemeal package to put some of the ones I want together. Sort of….one from Column A, one from Column B. I realize this may not be possible but you have so many wonderful ones in your library! I was looking at the membership as well and trying to figure out how best to meet my needs. Still learning how to put all this together!!!
Thanks so much,
Pat
roserader1@yahoo.com
Hello Cindy, Thank you for not only being a beautiful artist and designer but to be kind enough to share your knowledge with me.
Hugs
Rose
Hi Cindy,
My question is: if you condition the clay once and you store the leftovers, do you need to condition the leftovers again after a period of time? Thank you in advance.
@Ifama: My quick answer Ifama is Yes.
Hi Cindy,
In video #38 about sanding you mention that you can also use power tools to do the job and that you would teach about that in another video. Have you already done that video? If so, would you let me know where it is in the archive?
Thanks,
Linda
@Linda F: Hi Linda, I have actually not done a tutorial on that yet… got distracted making other tutes! Thanks for the reminder. I’ll have to think about doing one for the future. As far as sanding goes, I find working by hand with Micro-Mesh Pads to be quick and very effective. I have done a tutorial on that if you want to check it out. Just click the link by my name for more info.