Applying Ultradome UV Epoxy Resin To Polymer Clay
Video #606: I’ve used Ultradome UV Resin for 4 years now and feel that it has several advantages over other products in the marketplace.
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IN THIS POST: — uv resin — uv epoxy resin — epoxy resin — ultradome — epoxyjewelry.com — epoxy jewelry — terry morris — bezels — uv lamp — 36 watt uv lamp — uv oven — findings — 1 part epoxy resin — uv cure — no mix resin — (Topics marked with an asterisk* are discussed in the Comments Section below).
Topics Covered In This Video:
- UV Epoxy Resin, also known as Ultradome, is sold online by Terry Morris at Epoxy Jewelry (resource link is below under the video).
- Ultradome is a very cool UV Curing Resin that I have been using for several years. I love it!
- The new dark plastic bottle design, helps to prevent curing in the bottle. Long fine tip for pouring onto project with precision and control.
- With this product, you need a UV Lamp to cure the resin.
- I use a 36Watt UV Lamp (Four 9 Watt bulbs), which gives a better cure than the smaller 9 Watt (one bulb) lamps found at Michaels and on eBay.
- I show several examples of the UV resin on a variety of polymer clay pieces… Thick and thin… With holes and without… One side and double-sided.
- Resin gives lots of added strength to thin polymer clay items, and to pieces with holes drilled into them.
- The beautiful, clear, glassy, domed finish of UV Epoxy Ultradome product will enhance the color and shine of your polymer clay jewelry creations.
- Resins, in general, work best on flat pieces.
- UV Epoxy resin is a self doming resin. The crisper the edges of the pieces you are covering, the higher the dome you can get.
- Ultradome does not pull away from edges like other products do… such as Magic Glos and Glossy Accents.
- This product is very easy to use.
- It cures fast Cure (20 – 25 minutes in a UV Lamp).
- Easy to remove bubbles using an open flame from a hand held lighter device.
- There is no mixing with Ultradome… it is a 1 part product.
- I didn’t mention it in the video, but Ultradome UV Resin is less expensive than other UV Resins on the market.
- I used a plastic resin mat with raised bumps to lift my piece up from the surface. This makes putting resin on thin pieces much easier.
- You will see how to apply the UV Epoxy resin direct from the bottle.
- Use a pin or needle tool to draw the resin to the outside edges of your piece.
- Pop any bubbles that show up by using an open flame barbecue lighter.
- Make sure your work surface is level when curing.
- After the resin is fully applied, the cure under UV Lamp for 20 – 25 minutes.
- Clean up with rubbing alcohol.
- Make sure that UV light can always get to all resin coated surfaces. In other words, you don’t want surplus resin seeping under or behind any areas that will be shielded or hidden from the UV light.
- Make sure any glues you may have used in the construction of your jewelry item are completely dry before adding resin.
- Clean metal objects with rubbing alcohol before adding any resin.
00:00:03 –> 00:00:07 Hi guys, its Cindy Lietz, your Polymer Clay Tutor, and in today’s PCT Product Demo, I’m
00:00:07 –> 00:00:17 gonna show you how to use a UV Epoxy Resin by EpoxyJewelry.com, and it’s also known as
00:00:17 –> 00:00:23 UltraDome, and it is a really cool UV Cured Resin that I’ve been using for years and really
00:00:23 –> 00:00:24 love.
00:00:24 –> 00:00:29 Now, they’ve just come out with a new bottle, so if you’ve bought it in the past, it looks
00:00:29 –> 00:00:36 a little bit different, and I really like it, its…now a UV Resin, you use a UV Lamp
00:00:36 –> 00:00:42 to cure it, so it’s only comes in one step.
00:00:42 –> 00:00:49 So what’s neat about this bottle here is that… it’s dark so that UV Light doesn’t set it
00:00:49 –> 00:00:53 while it’s in the bottle, and it also has a really fine tip that you can use for pouring
00:00:53 –> 00:00:55 out onto your pieces.
00:00:55 –> 00:01:03 Now let me just show you first what a UV Resin looks like, I’ve got a bunch of Polymer Clay
00:01:03 –> 00:01:08 pieces here done in a bunch of different finishes, some are thicker pieces where I’ve just put
00:01:08 –> 00:01:14 the UV Resin on the top layer, and I’ve added it after I’ve drilled the holes, and so these
00:01:14 –> 00:01:18 holes are nice and strong because of that UV Coating on there.
00:01:18 –> 00:01:24 I’ve also done it on really thin pieces like this Blend and Switch piece here, a Blend
00:01:24 –> 00:01:30 and Switch Technique tutorial that I teach, it’s got resin on both sides, so if it’s this
00:01:30 –> 00:01:35 thin, you can tell that the Polymer Clay was very thin, but it makes it really tough and
00:01:35 –> 00:01:38 shiny and beautiful and domed.
00:01:38 –> 00:01:47 Now, I’ve also got it on a little, really paper thin die cut piece here and it’s domed
00:01:47 –> 00:01:50 on both sides with the resin.
00:01:50 –> 00:01:57 I’ve got it on a little bit bigger piece here, this is a Mokume Gane Technique, and the color
00:01:57 –> 00:02:03 just really comes to life when you’ve got that gorgeous UV Resin on it.
00:02:03 –> 00:02:08 And then I’ve also got it in a bezel here, this is the Faux Labradorite Technique, and
00:02:08 –> 00:02:15 it just makes it look beautiful and then also on the Faux Batik Technique, so obviously
00:02:15 –> 00:02:22 you can use it on any surface, because it’s quite a thin resin, it works best on the flat
00:02:22 –> 00:02:29 pieces, and it domes…it’s a self-doming type of resin, and it is a one part so that
00:02:29 –> 00:02:34 it’s really easy to use, the only down side is that you have to spend money on the oven…or
00:02:34 –> 00:02:38 the UV Lamp to cure it.
00:02:38 –> 00:02:49 It has some other benefits as well, I’ve got a couple of pieces of the Faux Batik Technique
00:02:49 –> 00:02:54 with other products on it, and some of the downsides to other resins and products that
00:02:54 –> 00:03:01 give a lot of gloss is that in this case…this one is the glossy accents, and there’s…it
00:03:01 –> 00:03:07 pulls away from the side, it puckers in the middle, this one here was covered…
00:03:07 –> 00:03:14 I don’t know if the camera is picking it up, but this was covered with the Magic Gloss,
00:03:14 –> 00:03:23 a UV Resin and it pulls from the side really bad, but that’s what this UV Epoxy doesn’t
00:03:23 –> 00:03:27 do at all, it doesn’t pull from the side and it’s very easy to use.
00:03:27 –> 00:03:33 Let me just show you how to use it, I’m just gonna take one of my pieces here…you’ll
00:03:33 –> 00:03:40 always want to use the ones that have been sanded first, the crisper the edge on the
00:03:40 –> 00:03:45 piece, the nicer…the higher the dome you can get on it.
00:03:45 –> 00:03:53 Now, I’ve got this little rubber mat that I got at Michaels for doing resin on, it’s
00:03:53 –> 00:03:57 great because it keeps it up off the surface, especially if you’ve got a super, super thin
00:03:57 –> 00:04:04 piece, I don’t like that it’s flexible, there are some products out there for doing resins
00:04:04 –> 00:04:09 that are stiff and with the little feet on it, that would be better, but this is nice
00:04:09 –> 00:04:14 too ‘cause if anything spills over, you can always clean that up easily.
00:04:14 –> 00:04:21 The thing about this particular lamp…now this is a 32-watt lamp, it’s got 4 bulbs in
00:04:21 –> 00:04:28 it, 4 of the 9-watt bulbs, and it’s much more powerful than those 9-watt, you might see
00:04:28 –> 00:04:33 them at Michaels, the white one…I have one but I couldn’t find the little lamp, but it
00:04:33 –> 00:04:38 only has 1 bulb in it and it’s just meant for your fingertips, it’s just not as powerful
00:04:38 –> 00:04:47 as these 36-watt actually…36-watt, but this is a much better one, and it’s got a tray
00:04:47 –> 00:04:53 that slides out in the bottom, so what I do is I slide out the tray, put this little mat
00:04:53 –> 00:04:59 on the top and then I can just slide this back into the oven or because it’s the bottom
00:04:59 –> 00:05:03 like that, you can set it right over top of pieces and it works great that way, we’re
00:05:03 –> 00:05:05 just gonna do it this way.
00:05:05 –> 00:05:12 And what you’re gonna need to do is just take the resin, and you just go around the outside
00:05:12 –> 00:05:21 edges of your piece, kinda first, and then you can go towards the center, and put quite
00:05:21 –> 00:05:31 a bit on there, it’s got a good surface tension to it and it doesn’t just pour off the sides,
00:05:31 –> 00:05:36 and I’m just gonna take like a sharp little pin or wire, whatever and pull it out to the
00:05:36 –> 00:05:39 edges of my piece.
00:05:39 –> 00:05:44 And then like I said before, it doesn’t…when it cures, it doesn’t pull away from the edges,
00:05:44 –> 00:05:51 as long as you’ve spread it right out to the edge, so just make sure that you’ve gone around
00:05:51 –> 00:06:00 and done that, and make sure…I always be careful to make sure that I’ve done it perfectly,
00:06:00 –> 00:06:07 once you’ve cured it, it’s cured, so you can always add another layer if you need to.
00:06:07 –> 00:06:12 Now I’ve got a little bubble in the center, actually a couple of them, what you need to
00:06:12 –> 00:06:18 do is just take a lighter, this happens to be a barbecue one with a big long handle,
00:06:18 –> 00:06:25 and I’m just gonna light it, and you just wave it over the top and those bubbles will
00:06:25 –> 00:06:32 just pop, so you really wanna make sure that you’ve got all the bubbles because the bubbles
00:06:32 –> 00:06:35 will cure in there.
00:06:35 –> 00:06:39 And I usually let it sit for a little bit, just to see if any new bubbles will come up.
00:06:39 –> 00:06:44 Sometimes if you’ve got… like one thing you wanna do… like I’ve done this straight
00:06:44 –> 00:06:47 on the piece of Polymer Clay that’s clean and everything, but if you’re gonna put it
00:06:47 –> 00:06:56 into metal or anything like that or put it on a paper, you wanna seal the paper first,
00:06:56 –> 00:07:00 and make sure it’s completely sealed before you put the resin on, and then with metal
00:07:00 –> 00:07:03 and that kind of thing, you wanna make sure it’s clean, so you wanna wipe it out with
00:07:03 –> 00:07:09 rubbing alcohol and make sure there’s no oils or grease or things like that.
00:07:09 –> 00:07:17 If you glue something into… say you glued a piece of Polymer Clay into this metal bezel,
00:07:17 –> 00:07:26 what you wanna make sure is that there’s no big gaps between the piece and the bezel,
00:07:26 –> 00:07:30 you also wanna make sure that the glue is dried really, really well, because with the
00:07:30 –> 00:07:35 UV Resin, it needs the light to get at it before it can cure, and so if there’s big
00:07:35 –> 00:07:43 gaps here, the UV Resin will stay soft because the lights…like if it runs down in between,
00:07:43 –> 00:07:45 and then the lights can’t get at it to cure it.
00:07:45 –> 00:07:51 It’ll stay soft, and then the top will be hard, or if the glue is uncured, it may gas
00:07:51 –> 00:07:55 off and give little bubbles and things like that up around the edges, so that’s where
00:07:55 –> 00:07:59 you may run into any problems, but a simple piece like this, is just like dead simple,
00:07:59 –> 00:08:03 way easier than mixing 2 parts and that kind of thing.
00:08:03 –> 00:08:07 So I’m just gonna do a quick check to make sure it’s all pulled out to the edges, looks
00:08:07 –> 00:08:13 like I missed a little spot, you wanna make sure it’s on a level surface, and that there’s
00:08:13 –> 00:08:20 no bubbles or lint or cat hairs and that kind of thing in there, and then you just slide
00:08:20 –> 00:08:24 it in to your oven.
00:08:24 –> 00:08:30 And this one has a 2 minute timer that you can just push to start, and that’s for curing
00:08:30 –> 00:08:34 your fingernail, if you’re using UV Gel and stuff, that’s what these are actually used
00:08:34 –> 00:08:42 for, curing fingernail polish, but this one also has a timer that you can just leave on
00:08:42 –> 00:08:47 full, so I would leave that on and then you leave it for 20 minutes, I like to throw it
00:08:47 –> 00:08:52 in a little bit longer, you know how I like to make sure that things are really cured,
00:08:52 –> 00:08:56 but 20 minutes will usually do it…20 – 25 minutes, just leave it in there and it gets
00:08:56 –> 00:09:03 like rock hard…actually that’s the wrong one, this one, but it just…it’s rock hard,
00:09:03 –> 00:09:09 you can sand it, say you had it around the edges, you can sand it off, you can buff it
00:09:09 –> 00:09:11 up.
00:09:11 –> 00:09:19 If it’s sticky like if there was some edges where it had dripped underneath, say for example,
00:09:19 –> 00:09:23 and it was uncured, you can actually just clean it up with some rubbing alcohol and
00:09:23 –> 00:09:25 you can wipe off any stickiness with that.
00:09:25 –> 00:09:31 But this is a beautiful resin that I… if I had more time to spend, I would just be
00:09:31 –> 00:09:35 covering everything in the UV Resin, I just really, really love it.
00:09:35 –> 00:09:40 So, yeah, you can get it from Terry Morris, he’s…I’ve known him for quite some time,
00:09:40 –> 00:09:50 he carries the EpoxyJewelry.com… he carries the resin, he also carries a bunch of bezels
00:09:50 –> 00:09:55 and things, they’re very inexpensive, he has some molds and a lot of other neat little
00:09:55 –> 00:09:57 things there that he carries.
00:09:57 –> 00:10:01 So I hope that was helpful for you, a lot of people have been bugging me about finding
00:10:01 –> 00:10:07 out what that Pink thing was on my desk, finally you know what it is, and you can check out
00:10:07 –> 00:10:08 Terry’s site.
00:10:08 –> 00:10:11 And if you did like this video, do let us know.
00:10:11 –> 00:10:16 If there are any other ideas, products you’d like me to test, things you don’t know how
00:10:16 –> 00:10:22 to do, challenges, things like that, leave those in the comment section below as well.
00:10:22 –> 00:10:30 And we also have a great resource over at PolymerClayTutor.com where you can use the
00:10:30 –> 00:10:35 search box there to find the answers to all of your Polymer Clay questions.
00:10:35 –> 00:10:37 We’ll see you next time and bye for now.
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Resource Links:
- Etsy: UltraDome UV Resin **
- Related Article: UltraDome Brand UV Curing Epoxy Resin
- Related Video: Polymer Clay UV Epoxy Resin UltraDome Brand
- Related Article: UV Cure Jewelry Resin UltraDome Test Results
- Related Video: Polymer Clay Blend and Switch Technique
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Dear sir.
Pls. tell me any of indian supplier address.
Thank you,
I think I just had a brain storm for UV coating on beads!
Buy a rotisserie motor for grilling. They have them on Amazon for $25. You could pretty easily rig some sticks/wire to slide your beads on. I bet you could paint it on (while spinning) and then place the UV light over it. I bet it would keep it from dripping!
Clever idea Lena! Do let us know if you try this idea out. You may be on to something!
This idea reminded me of something I’d read about a long time back. Not sure how much this helps, but here’s someone else who had a similar idea.
That’s wonderful. I wasn’t the first to think of it, but now we know it would work!
Hello Cindy.
Love this video and ordered Terry UV epoxy resin and love it. It worked beautifully with pictures in metal bezels.
So I decided to try it with polymer clay(which is why I ordered).
Complete disaster! I cured it twice in the 36watt lamp(new) and the resin was still tacky. Then tried another polymer clay cab and the same thing happened. Contacted Terry Morris & he sent me a document to help me determine if it was the epoxy gone bad. It was not!! However he gave me some good advice about the clay. It has to be completely cured; completely clean of dust, fumes, lotions. He also suggested cleaning the polymer clay piece with alcohol. I have not tried the alcohol yet but will be doing this.
Have you found certain clays that are incompatible with epoxy resin? Your input is greatly appreciated, Shelia
Hi Shelia, in the picture you sent me you mentioned that you brushed the resin on. There is a good chance that the brush you were using has some residual chemicals from whatever you used it last with, that were reacting with the resin and keeping it from curing. I always use the resin on flat pieces, straight from the bottle, so I have never had an issue with it not curing. I would do a small test with a small flat baked piece and see if that fixes your problem. You said you had no issues with the paper, so I am thinking this may be what’s happening. Let us know how it goes…
Hi Cindy,
Thank you so much for your tuts! I’ve been binging on them this past week.
I am new to polymer clay and I have fallen head over heels in love with it all! I hadon’t an idea pop into my head with this tutorial. I want to make beadsure using polymer clay that look similar to glass lampwork beads. Is that possible or is it too far fetched for this newbie? If it is possible could you please suggest something to get me going in the right direction?
Thank you!
No that isn’t too far fetched Amenia. Polymer clay and resin can make some very nice faux lampwork beads. Resin on round surfaces is tricky though, because it wants to drip off before it gets the chance to cure, but for flatter pieces it works very well!
HI Cindy, I have been using this product since, oh gosh I think 2010. And I love it! To this point I have only used it on jewelry, earrings and pendants, which of course have minimal wear and tear. I am thinking about making some items that would used almost daily, dropped into a purse etc. Have you had any experience as to how the resin holds up to this type of use?
Thanks!
Hi Jennifer, I have used this resin on a purse charm, a keyring and a purse hanger for my own personal daily use for about 5 years now and the resin has held up better than the metal findings it was in!
Thank you, that was my first instinct, but wanted to hear from someone who had actually used it that way.
Jenny P
Finally!! You have made my YEAR Cindy. Bought a bottle of the Ultradome and am having a blast!! Thank you for your great Tutes, I’ve learned so much from you and appreciate your always bright enthusiasm about our craft -no one appreciates a “Claytech’ ( as my husband calls me) more than another Claytech!.
Thank you so much Jenifer for saying that! I am so happy that you are enjoying yourself. I love the term claytech… what a perfect way to describe our obsession! :)
I love it! Claytech, that’s great!
Hi Cindy! Thank you for this tutorial about UltraDome. I’m wondering if you have done any polymer clay pieces with paint applied and then domed wth UltraDome? Polymer clay tutorials usually suggest acrylic paint. Would that be your recommendation? The paint would be in recessed areas on the surface of the clay. Thanks and happy new year!
Hi Jennifer, yes I believe I did a while back. Just make sure the paint you’re using has completely dried so it doesn’t react with the UV Resin and not properly cure. I’d let it dry at least a couple of days before putting on the resin. Of course it is always best to test, so you may want to do a sample first before committing to a large batch. Good luck! Let us know how it goes!
I just bought another bottle of UV resin, too! My first order lasted me a year and a half! Plus, shipping took only two days to get it to me! Terry offers great service! Love this product and he offers a lot more stuff! He had a great price on glue on bails, as well.
I totally agree with you Catalina!
I have used Ultra-Dome for over 4 yrs. It is my fav for sure. Yes, the bubbles are a pain to get rid of,BUT I allow time to do this. No problemo. In Arizona we have LOTS of Sun. So I cure outdoors.In 15 min. Pieces are hard as a rock. I even use a little round table,with a level, to make sure it is level. Works every time.Just a little FYI………..
Cool Patt! Although it is pretty sunny around here lately, normally there would be no chance of getting a decent cure in the sun around here. I should try and see if it works while we are still getting so much sun!
Has anyone tried re-baking UV resin coated pieces? I made some tiny pieces and covered them with resin, and I want to glue on earring posts. I’d like to use clay to secure the posts and re-bake the pieces, but I’m not sure it’s safe.
Hi Krithika, I have used UV dome for a long time and have rebaked it several times with no problems. I have actually baked the same piece twice. Just be sure it is covered completely so it has no chance of burning. You can rebake it at your normal PC temp (275) if using premo but like I said, cover it completely.
Thank you for the quick reply! That’s really good news for me. I usually do bake my clay covered, but there could be a gap if I’m using a large tile for flat pieces. I’ll make sure there’s no gap.
Hi Krithika,
Be very careful how long you re-bake light colored clays-had a beautiful clear transparent cabochon that I left in the usual 30 minutes and it came out looking more like Amber! Good luck!
Cindy,
My daughter does nails and bought a new UV oven that she decided was too big for her to transport to her nail appointments. I know you said that a low power nail oven would work but took a lot of time. The oven she said I could have has 6-9watt UV bulbs in it. Does that make it a 54 wat oven and would that work to cure the UV resin?
Thanks
Beth
I’ll jump in here; the lamp I have is also for nails and it’s has 4 9W bulbs, so a total of 36W. The UltraDome resin hardens in about 30 minutes (I’ve left if for over an hour as well and not had any issues). I’ve used Magic Glos as well and it works great. So I’d think 54W will work just fine.
I finally caved and got some UltraDome resin last week because I was fed up with Magic Glos pulling away from the edges no matter what I did. It’s amazing!! I covered loads of thin pieces with resin on both sides and almost worked my way through the 2 oz bottle. I did find that the bubbles were more difficult to pop that other resins I’ve worked with before. Usually waving a heat gun over the pieces pops all bubbles, but that didn’t work with this. A candle lighter was better, but still took a while. It’s still worth it though, cures completely in half an hour! Really glams up my mica pieces!
Congrats Krithika! I love the UltraDome. It really is easy to work with, turns out so beautiful and is much cheaper than the other resins out there. So glad to hear you like it!
Hi Lena…I hope so. That’s what I did. Turned out great, except the edges were dull. I just brushed on some glaze and it looks fine.
Great point about the sides Peg! Thanks for helping Lena out!
Have you ever noticed a problem with over curing an item? I’m making little eyeballs with magic glos and on one eye I noticed some microscopic surface cracks in the resin and I kept the eye under a uv lamp for close to 45 minutes. Piece is only 6mm wide so very small amounts of resin here. Also, you mentioned that paper should be sealed. What would you recommend for a sealer? I print tiny irises on inkjet paper and glue that onto either a resin or cured polymer clay eyeball and use uv resin to dome it out. Haven’t noticed any ill effects with uv gel right on top of printed paper but then again my results aren’t stellar and I’m still perfecting my technique. I want to give this product a try as it appears not to shrink or pull away from the edges and that might work better for my project.
Hi Joe, I haven’t noticed problems with over curing but then again I have only cured for about 20 – 30 minutes and my pieces are thicker than what you are describing. Also in regards to sealing the paper… although I do know that the paper will bleed and discolor if it is not sealed, I haven’t worked with putting paper under resin myself. Terry at Epoxy Jewelry (see link above) has all sorts of info and products that will help with that very problem. So I suggest you go there since he really is the expert on doming resin on paper. I do believe this will be a better product for you than the magic Glos and it is WAY cheaper. Do let us know what you find out!
Well THAT’S neat! Great video.
I assume if you were going to do a two-sided piece, you would just do one side, cure it and then flip and repeat?
That is exactly right Lena!
Hi Cindy – thank you so much for going over the UV Resin project again. You must be psychic because I was on the point of covering some beads with a final coat of something shiny and wondered if I could use Epoxy Resin for this and – hey presto! there’s your video! As the flat items you show keep the resin on the surface and not falling off the edges how would this work with round beads? Or perhaps resin is not ideal for circular objects, if this is the case what would you recommend to get the same fantastic glossy effect?
Thanks again – Marion
Hi Marion, I haven’t had much luck using resin on round objects. It is quite thin and tends to run and drip before it sets. If I figure out how to do it well, then I will certainly pass it on. Thanks for your comment! Hope you have a wonderful holiday with your family! It is going to be a creative New Year!
Thanks Cindy. My very best wishes to you and Doug for a wonderful holiday season! Don’t eat too much pudding!
Marion
Well Cindy I just had to pop in here as I just ordered my second batch of UV resin from Terry. I ordered the large 8 oz. bottle my first time and believe it or not it lasted 2 yrs almost to the date because I kept it in a dark cool place in the UV container. I have tried several of the others on the market but have not found any thing comparable to the UV Dome Resin. It too is my favorite.
Oh Cindy! Every time I think I can’t possibly need anything else for my clay, I watch your video and see just one more thing. This is the resin I thought I was buying when I bought ICE. So I go on to his website and lo and behold, he sells some other things that I just have to have. Those chokers! Those ribbon necklaces! Oh my! And tbis is the gal who was not going to try to sell anything. I think I might have to just to be able to buy more stuff. Now I’m going to admire the things that came in the mail today. Good job, Cindy! LOL
That’s funny Peg! You wouldn’t be the first crafter at the market selling their wares to support their hobby. I had to start a whole business to support mine! :) Have fun with your package of goodies. There is nothing more exciting than a box filled will supplies!